Leaving the coast and driving inland toward the community of Minatitlan, we pull off the road at the turnoff to “Canoas” in search of a legendary cascade that locals say spouts fresh water all year round.
The tiny settlement of Canoas has several dirt roads that weave past dusty yards where hens cluck after their newborn chicks, horse
s chew on their cud, and dogs loll in the shade of clap board homes beside giant cactus rising through the packed earth with their hardy arms stretched toward the sky.
Heading into the hills past fields of grazing cattle, the climate changes to slightly more temperate and trees seem taller and more grandiose. We park on the side of a dead end road and follow a worn path of dried leaves through the woods past 10-storey palm trees and shade-loving indigenous coffee trees along a dried river bed of giant boulders.
The sound of running water at first seems a phantom thought among the rustling trees and occasional bird song, and then it becomes more apparent until we rounded a bend and see a trickling stream and feel the dramatic temperature dip, signaling our arrival at the 40-foot (12-meter) cascade.
At the basin, a narrow pool forms a natural swimming hole sheltered by high ledges covered in lacy ferns before tumbling down several rocky steps into a small river flowing into the forest. A cloud burst caught us by surprise and the emerald shades of the jungle leapt into greater clarity through the falling raindrops.
Back at the car, we followed the road back toward Canoas and passed through a secure cow gate at the end of a large grassy field. Just a few yards away through more coffee bushes we came upon a clearing with the river – this time flowing freely – gurgling serenely across our path. A huge ancient tree spread its branches above and the forest floor was covered in a carpet of dried leaves. A spring covered with a rocky overhang bubbled with fresh water from the depths of the earth. It was as if we had emerged into a private Garden of Eden immersed deep in the woods. Manzanillo seemed like it was worlds away.
How to get there
Follow the road exiting Manzanillo toward Minatitlan about 20 minutes until you reach a small turnoff on the right hand side of the road for Canoas.
